Guatemala March 2005
We had an uneventful flight on TACA airlines to Guatemala. We were met at the airport by our driver holding a sign with my name. I have been in hundreds of airports and seen those drivers before. We always wondered who it was that used those type of services, somehow assumed they be different people than us.
The traffic in the city was not bad, but the haze and smog sort of hung over Guatemala city. And, the “chicken” buses were spewing their normal amount of soot. So, we were glad that we were heading to Antigua, the ancient capital.
The van ride also went fairly smoothly. We did not have to pass too many check points. When we got into Antigua, the traffic was a bit difficult as there were lots of blocked roads and really only one way around. There was a processional going and the traffic had to stop as they made their way past us.
We arrived at our hotel / hostel San Nicolas which is south of where we have been before in this town and near the Franciscan church. I have fond memories of this church as I really like the ironwork on the gates around it and we enjoyed watching a young priest in full robes play a game of soccer with young people. We wandered around town after a nap and oriented ourselves.
The brochure we were given said that there would be no more processionals, but there was another one in the evening. We admired the purple robed men leading the group, with their robes decorated with their church affiliation and some other designations.
There were men with their young sons also dressed up in purple. Some toddlers in costume were walking too, but in other cases, the men held their sleeping toddlers in their arms. The processional participants pay to walk in the event.
While we were given a map and supposed starting times for each of the processionals, the map might not indicate the real starting location. If you find the start, they might not leave when they say they will leave. And, as far as the route, well, that might have changed too. There could be multiple processionals going on at the same time in different parts of town. It is a bit confusing, but all in good spirits. We have seen more processionals and been showered with more holy incense than I have been in a lifetime. The churches really like their incense.
The processional typically is lead off by two rows of men, sometimes the men may be dressed as Roman guards.
There may also be a depiction of a group of saints or angels, sometimes this part is done by smaller floats that can be carried by four people. Sometimes children or other men or women carry banners with the passion week story written on it.
Then, the Christ float is carried down the streets on the shoulders of many men. Our first processional float had 20 men on each side and the band followed behind. The main role of the band was to keep the beat for the float walkers. The men are standing so close together that they have to be in sync with their footsteps. The bearers of the floats have done this for years, sometimes from one generation to the next. Navigating these floats around corners is quite a challenge.
We didn’t realize until later what the tall poles were for: pushing up the various wires (phone, electric) from getting tangled in the float. Some of the float bearers also carry poles that they can rest the float on when they have to stop (sometimes to adjust the images on the float or to change people carrying.)
We didn’t realize until later what the tall poles were for: pushing up the various wires (phone, electric) from getting tangled in the float. Some of the float bearers also carry poles that they can rest the float on when they have to stop (sometimes to adjust the images on the float or to change people carrying.)